By Bruce Neyers

Tuesday 11th July, 2023

I sure enjoyed reading my most recent copy of James Suckling’s reviews of currently available wines. James mentioned the newly released 2022 Chardonnay ‘304’ from Neyers Vineyards, and made some important observations. Here’s what he had to say:

Neyers Vineyards 2022 Chardonnay 304

Chopped apples, pears, peaches and wet stones on the nose. Crisp and focused with a medium to full body. Clean and mineral Chardonnay. Drink now.
90 POINTS – James Suckling

We looked to the Chablis region of France for the inspiration behind this wine, and found it in Paul Larson’s Sonoma Carneros vineyard, a well-groomed parcel that sits on a rocky outcropping, just a few hundred yards from the Napa County border. Paul’s vineyard is close to San Francisco Bay, and the weather here is chilly through most of the summer. The growing season is long, and the grapes are high in natural fruit acidity when we pick them. The rocky soil provides a mineral element, and the extra flavor from the ‘Shot-Wente’ Selection vines with their small clusters gives us a lovely, focused balance.

In the spring of 1974, I accepted a job offer as winemaking apprentice at a property in Germany’s Nahe region. Barbara and I put our belongings in storage, found a temporary home for our two cats, then flew to Luxembourg. After a short drive, we arrived in Bad Kreuznach, where I worked the harvest in the cellars of Weingut von Plettenberg. In December, we moved to Alsace where I worked with a producer in Bergheim. As fond as we were of Germany, we fell in love with Alsace. The people were wonderful, the setting was gorgeous, and the food was the best I’d ever eaten. A few years ago, Barbara joined me on a return trip there, and while we went to several great Michelin-starred restaurants in the region, one of the best meals we’d enjoyed was also one of the simplest – a classic onion tart followed by oxtail stew. Both dishes were perfect with the crisp, fresh local wines, and the onion tart was especially well suited for our Chardonnay ‘304’. She made the tart last week, and it — along with the bottle of 2022 Chardonnay ‘304’ I opened — was delicious. Here’s the recipe she drew up.

Classic Onion Tart – By Barbara Neyers

Ingredients

• An 8-inch partially cooked puff pastry or pastry shell on a baking sheet
• 2 pounds sweet onions, about 7 cups, preferably sweet white onions
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 eggs
• two-thirds cup whipping cream
• 1 and one-half tablespoons flour
• One-half cup grated Swiss cheese
• 1 tablespoon butter cut in small pieces
• Salt & pepper
• Pinch of nutmeg

Preparation

1. Over low heat and stirring occasionally, cook onions in a heavy skillet with olive oil until tender and golden yellow. Approximately 45 minutes.

2. Sprinkle with flour and continue cooking slowly for 2 to 3 minutes.

3. Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

4. Beat the eggs, cream, and seasonings in a bowl until blended. Gradually mix in the onions and half of the cheese. Pour into puff pastry or tart shell and spread the remaining cheese and butter pieces on top.

5. Bake in preheated oven for 25 to 30 minutes until tart has puffed and browned.

6. Slice and serve.