Neyers Vineyards Bruce's Journal
The Neyers 2023 Chardonnay ‘304’
By Bruce Neyers
Thursday 19th December, 2024
The 2023 harvest was our 31st at Neyers Vineyards. It was also our 50th year of making wine in California — Barbara and I missed the 1974 vintage as I was working at a winery in Germany. I began making wine for a living in 1972, and I’ve experienced my share of exciting harvests. No vintage, however, has been more remarkable than 2023. Rainfall was plentiful in the winter before the growing season started, so the ground was adequately moist. While the winter was cold, there were only a few spring days when we had concerns about frost. The weather was beautiful in May when flowering began with mild temperatures and little, if any, wind or unseasonable heat. The summer of 2023 was one of the most pleasant I’ve enjoyed in my many years of living in the Napa Valley. The autumn temperatures were moderate and dry. The ripe grapes were fully mature and beautiful to look at. While I hesitate to use the word ‘perfect,’ it’s tempting with this vintage. We began harvesting the Chardonnay from Paul Larson’s Carneros District vineyard on October 18, and it was one of the most bountiful and tasty crops from those vines in the 20 years that we’ve worked together. I’m enthusiastic about all of the wines we made in 2023, but the crop for our Chablis-style 2023 Chardonnay ‘304’ simply could not have been better. Tadeo was fully prepared for the good fortune involved in this miraculous vintage, as he insisted that picking proceed slowly, so the grape delivery and processing was unhurried. We whole-cluster pressed these grapes, then racked the juice to stainless-steel tanks, where it fermented naturally, relying on the wild, native yeast trapped on the skin of the ripe berries. Years ago, Tadeo designed a process for making this wine that allows us to circulate the juice as it ferments in the tanks. The result is richness and depth to accompany the striking combination of lemon-lime, grilled bread, and minerality. The high natural acidity adds a crispness that balances the full-bodied texture. The finished wine is complex, with a long, gratifying finish. You’ll find many ways to enjoy a bottle of this delicious Chardonnay.
Chanterelles on Toast
Ingredients
-
- 1pound fresh chanterelles
- 2 to 4 thick slices country bread for toasting such as Levain bread
- 1 teaspoon minced thyme
- 1 teaspoon minced chives
- 2 to 4 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley
- 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
- 1 tablespoon butter
- Kosher salt and fresh ground black pepper
Preparation
- Clean the mushrooms with a knife removing any discolored spots and lightly wash off any dirt.
- Slice the mushrooms 1/8 to ¼ -inch thick.
- Over medium heat, sauté the mushrooms in olive oil until lightly browned, approximately 4 to 5 minutes.
- Meanwhile, toast the bread slices until golden. Lightly butter them.
- Add the thyme, chives, and parsley to the mushrooms and season with salt and pepper.
- Spoon mushrooms and juices over the bread.
Paul Larson is right out of central casting as a northern California grape grower. He does much of his vineyard farming work himself, using a small crew that has been with him for many years. Over time, he has expanded his vineyard slowly, always keeping an eye on quality. This is looking slightly northwest towards Petaluma, which is on the far side of the hills in the distance. This parcel is barely a quarter of a mile from the San Francisco Bay. Even in July you usually need a jacket.
Chanterelles have been plentiful at our local grocery this summer, so we’ve had several occasions to enjoy this simple but tasty — and filling — dish. Serve it as a first course, or build your dinner around it with some sliced fresh tomatoes and olive oil. It brings out the best from a wine like our Chardonnay ‘304.’
Neyers Vineyards 304 Chardonnay
Lizzie took this picture in the vineyard parcel just outside of her house. It’s a Pileated Woodpecker who had been pecking away for over an hour at the utility pole on the border of our property. It requires a careful eye to pick him out, but they are majestic animals. It’s comforting — and noisy — to watch them work.
Photo by Lizzie Neyers Mix
